Featuring a motorcycle on a weekly
television show is neither new nor revolutionary. But the
Food Network, which is better known for sorbets and
seasonings, has decided to put one of their presenters on
two-wheels in search of the most traditional American
meals to be found on the back country roads.
From the culinary channel that features the talents of
Paula Dean, Rachael Ray and Giada De Laurentiis the choice
to make this trek across the United States was surprising
for some, but obvious to others.
Alton Brown
is a combination of celebrity chef, contest master and food scientist.
His interest in the kitchen developed early
with guidance from his mother and grandmother, a budding
culinary talent he skillfully used later “as a way to get
dates” in college. Switching gears as an adult, Alton
spent a decade working as a cinematographer and video
director, but realized that he spent all his time between
shoots watching cooking shows, which he found to be dull
and uninformative. Convinced he could do better, Alton
left the film business and moved to Vermont to train at
the New England Culinary Institute.
A D V E R T I S E M E N T
His cookbooks give an insight to Alton Brown’s fascination
for food and the science that lay behind it. The 2002 book
I'm Just Here for the Food
was one of the bestselling
cookbooks of the year, selling over 300,000 copies, and
featured a variety of recipes. His second book the
following year,
Alton Brown's Gear for Your Kitchen, was a
homage to tools and gadgetry, an essential guide to all
the “hardware” you need in the kitchen. Packed with
practical advice and tips, this book takes a look at
what’s needed and what isn’t, what works and what doesn’t.
It even includes 25 recipes and a six-month plan to
overhaul your kitchen with the most effective, innovative
and even surprising culinary tools available.
From page-turners to the small screen
Alton Brown’s television career has been as successful as
his publishing. Alton tapped all of his training to create
Good Eats, food show that blends wit with wisdom, history
with pop culture, and science with common cooking sense.
Alton not only writes and produces the shows but also
stars in each offbeat episode on Food Network. Alton also
serves as commentator on the popular series Iron Chef
America, where chefs compete in ring-style settings
creating dishes on the cuff.
TIME actually recently included Good Eats,
along with Food Network’s Iron Chef America, in their “6
SHOWS WORTH THEIR SALT” in 2005. However, for all his
culinary joie de vivre, Alton Brown is incredibly anal
retentive. Watching him micromanage a meal can zap all the
fun out of cooking. Sure, his recipes usually work, but he
uses flow charts and slide rules to figure out serving
sizes and cookie diameters.
All this makes Brown an unlikely candidate to host a
food-based travelogue. But not only is he the host, the
show is a fine blend of motorcycle’s, road-trip and dining
‘Americana’ style.
The show, Feasting on Asphalt is a series
of specials featuring Brown and a crew of six (four on
bikes, three in a pickup truck). Avoiding interstate
highways and avoiding any major chain restaurants the
mini-series has proven to be a culinary Easy Rider.
Wanting to make the show as much of a motorcycle road-trip
as it is a food program, the crew set out with camping
gear fully prepared to use it if a hotel wasn’t
conveniently located.
Alton begins his trip in Savannah Georgia, then winds his
way through the western edge of the Great Smokey Mountains
to the great blues and BBQ states of Missouri and Kansas,
next crossing the great plains of Oklahoma to the hill
country of Texas, then meandering southwest through New
Mexico and on to the Rocky Mountains and the great pioneer
state of Utah, then due west to Las Vegas and the
California coast.
There is the question of why this show’s concept
included a motorcycle.
“As far as I’m concerned, there’s no
better way to experience the road than from the back of a
bike. Being exposed to the elements presents thrills and
challenges alike, most of which can’t be captured in a
‘cage’” said Alton. “Although we’ll stay in the occasional
motor lodge as needed, many nights will be spent under
tent or stars. For vast majority of human history, hotels
didn’t exist and eating meant lighting a fire. The social
aspect of sitting around that fire is one of the things
our culture lost by taking most of our meals locked inside
our cars.”
What main ingredients is this particular
chef using for the mini-series?
His ride is a BMW 1200 RT, kitted out with
saddlebags, 49 liter top box, tank bag, camera mounts, dry
bag, communication system and realistically dirty from
riding though all types of weather.
Safety gear is abundantly worn starting
with his Shoei Synchrotec helmet, to his Vanson Hurricane
Jacket as well as a Roadcrafter One Piece Suit #120.
As it would turn out, the safety gear was
not only needed but may have well helped when Alton suffered a
motorcycle crash during the filming of the Nevada segment.
His only injury was a broken clavicle, which will heal
properly. This injury was caught on camera and is supposed
to be shown in episode 4 (Alton posted on his website that
"it was a low charisma event. No flames, no smoke ... just
a lot of dust and discomfort..")
The series will include more than just
great eats during a ride with six of Alton Brown’s closest
friends. In classic Alton Brown style, he incorporates an
entertaining history lesson about great road trips from
the past - from the Odyssey to the Crusades, to Lewis and
Clark, and Jack Kerouac. Archival photos, film footage
depicting the history of the American highway and the
evolution of the diners, cafes, and truck stops that once
flourished will all make an appearance.
The story will
also be seasoned with interviews gathered from the road,
various historians, anthropologists, and big thinkers who
can address issues like what’s good to eat under a log,
the broad social implications of the drive-through window
and the automobile cup holder.
Other Items packed....
Pelican dry case Ortleib dry big Aerostitch Combat Lite boots Glock shovel Sleeping bag Portable grill Camp stove Underwear Socks Titanium fork and spoon Skull caps Kershaw Blur Knife Pink Zippo Lighter Blackberry Motorola phones
When the rubber meets the
road
So does the show deliver on it’s high expectations?
At first, Brown does a bang-up job of
“getting in touch” with his Southern gentility (though
born in L.A., he’s spent time in Georgia). Starting his
cross-country trip on the outer banks of South Carolina,
he slowly drifts through the state, stopping off at a hot
dog stand to dig a few franks and soon travels over to
Savannah to see an authentic ’30s diner. When the spirit
grabs him, he ventures into unidentifiable gourmet
territory, actually attempting to snack on a bright pink
pickled pig’s foot (its two bites, and into the trash).
A D V E R T I S E M E N T
Along the way, he talks to the proprietors
of these out-of-the-way eateries, and laments Dwight D.
Eisenhower’s approval of interstating our nation’s
infrastructure. It’s more interesting, however, to hear
how a soul food impresario “prayed” for a restaurant (and
was eventually given a chance to run one by an
understanding businessman) than to listen to Brown bemoan
the loss of curb service. Large blue notebook in hand, he
seems too invested in his old-timer complaints about how
travel has become an edible adventure.
Thankfully, no amount of Brown’s
wistfulness can corrupt a truly inspired pit stop. Take
Phil Tanner’s Biscuit Place in Washington, Georgia. Run by
the entire Tanner brood (since father Phil likes to head
off to the local sports fields to mow the grass, free of
charge) and serving nothing but mouth-watering homemade
biscuits, dripping with butter and crammed with all kinds
of fatty fried meats, when our host starts explaining the
differences between leavened and unleavened breads, we
honestly couldn’t care less. Just watching the Tanner gals
mix up a mess of fresh hot heaven keeps a fussbudget like
Brown at bay.
We are similarly moved when the gang stops
off at Shirley’s Soul Food Café in Toccoa, Georgia. When
the proprietors heap a plate full of chicken, beans, mac
and cheese, collards and cobbler (with a steaming hunk of
cracklin’ laced cornbread on the top), basic cuisine never
looked better. Even Brown’s Q&A with the proprietress is
so genuine-seeming that we don’t that how he stumbles over
each query, seemingly unable to make this conversation
sound as passionate as the food looks.
Indeed, when it sticks to the food,
Feasting on Asphalt is endlessly inviting. As with Tony
Bourdain’s visits to exotic locales, it’s an education to
see how individuals at each stop celebrate mealtime. Part
of the thrill in such programs is the chance to live
vicariously through our gastronome guides. Yet Brown’s
personality keeps busting our balloon. One moment he’s
touting the pharmacy lunch counter as a turn of the
century meeting place, the next he’s providing an in-depth
discussion of the term ‘soda jerk’.
However well the show does with ratings or
it received by an obvious mixed demographic of viewers,
much of the success or blame will sit with its host, Alton
Brown. As demonstrated by a stop in Georgia where Brown, a
former film director, blocked out camera angles and
discussed lighting with his crew. He even sent the local
folks home for more suit jackets, so the "extras" in the
segment would look better dressed.
The show Feasting on Asphalt consists of
four episodes and are currently in re-runs on the
Food
Network.